These recommendations take you from the south to the north of the island. Each area has several places to explore.
The photograph above is of St Mary’s, Burwick (complete with the map of the circular walk).
1. Old St Mary’s Kirk, Burwick and the south
Getting there: The church and Burwick are towards the southern end of the A961 in South Ronaldsay [click for map]. You take the main road from the island’s north until you see the church. Our picture shows the church from the sea. It looks slightly different from the road. Much like St Peters below – there are no windows.
Old St Mary’s Church aka Lady Kirk in Burwick is one of the most interesting places to visit in South Ronaldsay click for details and scroll down to St Mary’s). It is thought to be where the first Christian missionaries landed; home to the Ladykirk Stone; and has a fascinating short circular walk that takes in 13 different listening points that come alive on your mobile phone. The site of St Colm’s Chapel is just a few metres east of the church on the other side of the road. The name ‘Burwick’ probably comes from bar vík – Old Norse for ‘bay of the extremity’ and is recorded as Bardvik around 1225.
You can also add the Brough Ness circuit walk (a coastal path followed by a return along a quiet road – about 3.5 miles) or a visit to the site of the Castle of Burwick. Another option is to visit Liddle Burnt Mound (close to Isbister) and Tomb of the Eagles (sadly both are currently closed – see our archaeology section ).
If you are headed north after visiting Burwick, why not stop off and visit Tomison’s Academy [see our schools section] and the former Free Church Chapel (by the turning to Barswick – see our churches section). Park by the entrance to the Academy (click for map).
2. Windwick, Cairns and Olav’s Wood
Getting there: From the north or south of the island, you follow the A961 until you reach Windwick Road [click for map]. The road is to the east – and you will see a radar station sort of to the west! A little way down the road makes a sharp turn to the left. Olav’s Wood is a little further on. You will see a small car park (for three cars).
Olav’s Wood: It is well worth downloading the short guide to the Wood [click for the guide] as it provides the background to the place, a guided walk, and a warning about the need to take care when walking. It rightly describes the wood as a magical place Olav’s Wood is a magical place:
A mixed woodland with areas of dense forest, a haven for wildlife, through which runs an attractive burn with cascades and pools, all set in the almost treeless landscape of one of Orkney’s islands.
There are two sections to the wood: the upper wood which is a mixture of deciduous trees and evergreens and has a network of paths; and Helen’s Wood. You access Helen’s Wood by crossing the burn at the bridge and, with the burn on your left, turn right and then left, entering the densest part of the wood by Olav’s Wynd. It consists mainly of mature spruce trees. You can carry on to the eastern edge of the wood and from there you will be able to look across to Windwick – and, in the field to the southeast, there is a site of an iron age broch and settlement. To return follow the paths by the burn and make your way through the upper wood to the entrance and car park.
Carry on east along the Windwick Road until you reach another small car park [click for map]
In Windwick, visit the site of the dig at the Cairns (broch and settlement) [click for details]. By the carpark, you will find a memorial to sailors lost at sea (and, close by, the site of St Andrew’s Chapel).
If you are returning to the north of the island, take in the wonderful views (if it is not too wet or misty) from Ward Hill and/or Olad’s Summit.
3. Kirkhouse – St Peter’s, the standing stones, and the beach and sea
Getting there: The best way to reach Kirkhouse is by taking Haybrake Road (the turning is next to the war memorial on the A961 – a short distance south from the road into St Margaret’s Hope). Follow the road and then cross Aikers Road onto Kirkhouse Road.
If you arrive at Kirkhouse in a car or on a bike, park in the car park at the bottom of the hill by the church.
The church. Enter the graveyard by the church Click and scroll down to St Peter’s for details of what to see.
Then go through the gate to see Kirkhouse Point and the ruins of the fishing station and windmill.
Standing stones. Walk the short way to the Millennium Standing Stone. You can continue, enjoy the view, or turn around.
Walk back to the car park and then a short distance up the road to your right. The Sorquoy Standing Stone is on your right.
Alternatively (or as well) walk south along the beach from the car park. Enjoy the beach and sea at the Pool of Cletts and then walk on to Newark Bay at the other end. Another option, if you have time, is to take the southbound coastal walk from Newark Bay to Stews Standing Stone and to then retrace your steps to Kirkhouse.
4. Hoxa Head and the Sands of Wright
Getting there:
Visit the Sands of Wright and the site of Sant Colme in Hoxay (St Colms Chapel, Sands of Wright). The Sands are home to The Festival of the Horse and Ploughing Match: one of Orkney’s unique occasions that dates back two centuries (see events). You can walk to one end and then back to the other or whatever takes you fancy.
Sant Colm’s Chapel was, essentially, where the mound is on your right as you look to the sea.
Turn right from the Sands of Wright car park, carry along the road for a short distance and take the first turn on your right. The road turns sharply to the left – but you need to go slowly down the track to the right and park before the building on your left. Do not enter the adjacent fields as they have horses in them. There is a pathway on the left that leads up to the Little Howe of Hoxa. You can also walk down the track and turn left as you reach the bay. There is a path to the Howe of Hoxa just before you reach the house.
Take a walk around Hoxa Head and enjoy the view across Scapa Flow. Visit the wartime watch towers and…
5. St Margaret’s Hope
Getting there: If you are crossing the fourth barrier from Burray, just continue on the A961 until you reach the forty-mile speed limit sign (about 3.5 km or just over 2 miles), then turn right and follow the road down to Cromarty Square where there is some parking.
Click for the St Margaret’s Hope page, and details of the village and what to see. You can take a special sound walk that takes in many of the main places to visit.
As well as shops, pubs and eating places, there is plenty to experience and explore.